fredag 13. mars 2020

Fomapan 400 - I might have figured it out, finally

OK, I agree that the title for this post is quite an optimistic one. Still, I have been thinking about how to attack Fomapan 400 film for some time now. I feel I have never really got under the skin of it, and that my negs have been quite far from well exposed almost no matter what I have been trying to do with this film.
So, yesterday I thought what the heck and decided to just as well put it through some real funky process.
I threw a roll inside the Rolleiflex and decided to over expose it, and then (as if that wasn't enough...) also to over develop it to some extent, just to see what that would bring to the table.
Some time ago I read a few words about folks who had done something similar with a roll or two of HP5 with good results, but as usual I couldn't find the article when I needed it. I know they both over exposed and over developed their film, but I'm not sure by how much.

This is Mr. Thor-Ole, the first engineer on board. He knows a lot about stuff and anything going around and around. That's nice skills to have when being an engineer of course.

So what I basically did was to decide to expose the film to 100 ASA. That should give us two stops of over exposure, done directly in camera.
The film were shot down in the engine control room of the ship, with some rather bad lighting as we have seen before from countless snaps taken down there. I used a phone app to measure the light and ended up at 1/8 sek. wide open lens at f/2,8. 
Of course, that's the stupid part of it, as it's completely taking away the speed advantages of using a 400 film in the first place. The case is that this film seems not to be a 400 film at all, which I have been thinking for quite a while actually. Usually my Fomapan 400 shots will end up dark, muddy and extremely grainy. Not so this time though, as you might see from the examples.

Meet Jøran, the Cadet of the engine department. He's probably telling his mother or whoever all about the life on board while waiting for news about when he can possibly get home from this place.

And as if the two stops of extra exposure wasn't enough I also decided to give it about two stops extra in the developer as well.
According to the Foma data sheet the Fomapan 400 in Fomadon Excel (1:1 mix) should have 9,5 minutes in the tank, so I almost doubled that ending up at around 17,5 minutes just to see if something weird might happen.

I might give it another go some other day. Shoot it at around 200 ASA and give it more or less the same time in the developer. That might do the trick... we will see. It would be great to earn one stop if nothing else.
I might even try to shoot it at say 320 and give it another stop or so in the developer as well. There could be several ways to get more or less the same result for all I know. 
What I'm after is simply a better way to use the Fomapan 400 film, as I quite like it but not the way I usually would consume it. 

The second engineer in for a short break. He is using his phone as well, but most likely to search the internet for spare parts for one of his very many old reel to reel tape machines. He's collecting them, you see. Will need a big house some day this young man.

What I can say straight away is that my negs here looks very much printable, and that my typical shadow issues seems to have been gone with the wind. There are bad spots for sure, but nothing like they used to be. For the first time I think I might say there seems to be details in the shadows. 
They might look a bit flat or with some loss of contrast, but then again the "scanning facilities" are still not up to par as you might remember, so it might not be as bad as it looks here.

Next film up for the treatment is the Ilford PAN 400 film. There's one already loaded inside the M6 rangefinder. I have even put batteries inside to be able to use the meter! I adjusted it to 200 ASA and will decide later on how much to stretch the development. There might be a conclusion some day... so stay tuned. 

I mean you have to put your mind into something else when it seems you might be sitting around here for quite a while... 

See that? That's the electrician and the last one working in my department, and he's on his phone as well. What is it with people and phones today and the times we live in? Well... I think we might be excused to some degree. We live well over half of the time away from our dear ones, and some sort of contact is always nice to have. The electrician is the experienced sailor among our team. He's been doing this since the quite early 70's or something like that, AKA "the stone age" to the younger lads among us...


6 kommentarer:

  1. I applaud your experiments with the film. A better use of your time than playing on the phone. My way of dealing with Fomopan (I have a roll on the shelf!) is 1. use it at box speed 2. send it to the lab in Seoul 3. feel depressed that most of my compositions are crap. I haven't noticed the film being extra dark, but I only look at the scans and probably wouldn't notice anyway.
    I didn't know there was a PAN 400 film from Ilford. It doesn't seem to be available here in Korea. The only PAN film I can see is the 50.

    SvarSlett
  2. Thanks, Marcus.
    The film will probably never make up for our crappy compositions no matter how hard we'd like it to do just that :))
    There is a PAN 100 and a PAN 400 from Ilford, yes. Cheaper than the HP5 and FP4 films, but maybe a little bit more expensive than the Kentmere line of films, or around the same price. I like the PAN films a bit more, even though they might be the same stuff for all I know :)
    They don't sell the PAN films (other than the PAN 50 as we know, but that one comes from a different line of production for sure, and is a "plus" film in the same line as HP5 and FP4) over in Europe, as it is a film which is intended for the Asia market as far as I know, so I'm a bit surprised you can't find them over there to tell the truth. Still there's a couple of shops in Europe as well always trying to have them in stock, so I usually will make sure I got a 100 ft. roll of both of them available in the freezer. Great films, I think... but the 400 is probably a bit on the grainy side for most folks. The PAN 100 is great though...
    You can see them here:
    https://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/ilford-pan-400-135-36-iso-400/p991
    https://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/ilford-pan-100-135-36-iso-100/p990

    SvarSlett
    Svar
    1. Very odd, indeed. Produced for the Asian market but not avilable in at least one Asian country. Maybe Koreans prefer the more expensive Ilford films? I wonder if it's available in Japan.
      Hmm, a search on Amazon Japan brings up Kentmere Pan 400. Oh well. Fomopan is a film with an old look that I like and for low-grain serious photography (when will I start doing that?) there's always Delta 100. Or digital black and white (don't hit me!)

      Slett
    2. Haha... nah, I think we should still snap our pictures the way we like the best, to be honest... whether it's on film or digital. Whatever suits you would be the best, I think. It's the picture that counts anyway, not the process as such. It's just the way I like to do things, and others have other preferences, of course :)
      Anyway, it's quite strange you can't find Ilford PAN 400 over there, but anyway...
      I really like the old fashion Ilford PAN films and the Fomapan films as well. They got something in them I just like. It's probably the way the grain spreads itself on a good day.

      Slett
  3. Good post Roy - thanks in advance, for I shall, no doubt, be using this film at some stage. I know we all have to run our tests and what have you, but at least I've a good starting point. Cheers mate!

    Like the photos - it sounds like these guys know what they're about, which I guess is quite handy when you're out there on the open sea and need to do stuff with moving mechanical things.

    SvarSlett
    Svar
    1. Thanks, Michael.
      Yes it helps a lot for sure, to know which tab to turn which way and so on ;-)

      Slett

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